September 16, 2005 - Killarney, County Kerry, Ireland

Today is our 5th anniversary (although we will be celebrating tomorrow).  Yesterday, we went to Ross Castle.  Built in the 15th century as a tower fort and residence to protect from cattle raids, it was just a ruin when the Irish government acquired it in 1973.  They have done a fantastic job restoring it, using other forts of the same era as a guide.  The construction is quite clever doors with metal studs on the outside, a murder hole in the second floor guards' room and uneven steps to discourage invaders.

From Ross Castle, we took a boat to an island in the middle of the lower lake called Innisfallen.  There are ruins of a a monastery of the same name there.  Though the ruins date to the 13th century, the monastery was founded by St. Finian in the 7th century.  In the the 13th century, the community became Augustinian and one of the greatest illuminated manuscripts, the Annals of Innisfallen (a history of Ireland), was written around that time.  The order also ran a school and Brian Boru was educated there.  The lakes of Killarney are beautiful and the island is quite peaceful.  There is a trail around the island we were able to walk.  The island is covered with Irish ferns and there are deer on the island, although we didn't see any of the latter.

Ruins of the Monastery at Innisfallen

In the afternoon, we went to Muckross House and Gardens, a Victorian-era manor.  It was nice, but not as interesting and by afternoon it had started to rain (whereas the morning had been gorgeous).

Last night, we went to a pub called Danny Mann's.  The band was excellent and played all the drinking song standards (Whiskey in the Jar, Wild Rover, Black Velvet Band) - but again, the patrons were all tourists and in our side of the bar there were speakers and video screen showing the band playing on the other side.  All too slick and put together.

Today, we had quite an adventure.  We drove an hour and a half to Portmagee where we got on a boat to the island of Skellig Michael.  It was a beautiful day today, but the ocean was choppy getting out there and back.  On the way back, Lisa and I got to stand in the cabin of the boat while the others had to put water proofs on.  The Skellig itself was quite impressive.  The view was incredible.  The climb to the top of of the island was very steep and very tiring.  At times I didn't think I would make it, even though there were stone steps.  I was also afraid I would be petrified of coming down, but as it turns out, the descent was not quite so scary as I thought.

At the top is a monastery founded in 588 and housing monks until 1222.  The monastery is very well preserved with two chapels, the abbot's home, and monastic cells all intact.  They are all just beehive huts made of stone, without mortar.  The newer chapel was about 3 paces in diameter.  The cells were about half that size and would have accommodated 2 or 3 monks each.

The courage and fortitude of those souls that voyaged out there in a boat made of animal skins stretched across a wooden frame and maintained a community there for centuries is astounding.  Oh, to have that degree of faith!  It was a breathtaking, renewing, and sometimes harrowing experience!

[AUTHOR'S NOTE 2018: Fans of Star Wars may recognize Skellig Michael as the planet on which Luke Skywalker was found hiding at the end of Star Wars Episode VII, The Force Awakens.  The Force did ineed run strong in this place...]